Allow Irani bakeries to use wood ovens to preserve Mumbai's culinary heritage - Narvekar demands

19 February 2025

Mumbai: After the BMC issued notices to the commercial eateries on use wood and charcoal, Makarand Narwekar, former BJP corporator from Colaba, has written to Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis demanding that heritage status be accorded to the Irani Cafes/Bakeries using woodfired ovens to preserve Mumbai's century old culinary history. Irani Bakers Association, in its representation given to Narwekar, has stated that implementation of the ban on use of wood and charcoal would adversely disrupt the supply of Pav required for Vada Pav.

Makarand Narwekar's letter comes in the backdrop of the recent Bombay High Court order prohibiting the use of wood and charcoal in commercial eateries leading to BMC issuing notices to eateries operating with these traditional methods. Subsequently, Irani Bakers Association also made a representation to Narwekar highlighting the impact on the industry.

Irani Bakers Association in its letter to Narwekar said, "You will appreciate that Pav is the only complementary product which goes with Vada. Vada Pav as we know has become a basic necessary of every Mumbaikar and and any disturbance in supply will create an unwanted scenario."

In his letter to CM Devendra Fadnavis, Makarand Narwekar highlighted that One of the sectors that stands to be most affected by this decision is the iconic Irani Cafes in South Mumbai, which have long been a cornerstone of our city’s food culture and history. "These cafes have been in existence for over a century, and the woodfired ovens they use are an integral part of their legacy. The distinct taste and aroma of the baked goods that these cafes are known for are the direct result of the wood and charcoal-based ovens. The non-wood or coal ovens will change the taste of the cuisine, which the patrons have cherished for generations," stated Makarand Narwekar.

Stating that the Irani Cafes are not just eateries but an essential part of Mumbai’s culinary history, Narwekar highlighted that their origins trace back to the 19th century, when Zoroastrian Irani immigrants introduced their culinary traditions to Mumbai. "To preserve this integral part of our heritage, I request that the government consider granting heritage status to these Irani Cafes, with an exemption from the prohibition on wood and charcoal use. This would protect a significant cultural identity that is closely tied to Mumbai’s history," added Narwekar.

Narwekar also said in places like New York, historic restaurants are exempt from regulations to protect traditional cooking methods, while in the Netherlands, centuries-old windmills, in the middle of the cities, are preserved as national heritage.